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Guy’s Gumbo Shack first opened its doors in a leaky, tin-roofed shack in Fairhope, AL in October of 2002 and the place was a local hit almost instantly. At first, it was almost exclusively a juke joint. Great local bands blew the roof off the Gumbo Shack on weekends, often packing the place to the point where you couldn’t get in the door.
Little by little though, Guy’s food attracted a whole new clientele. There was an editorial in the local paper wherein the writer gave thanks for all the wonderful things in Fairhope. Guy’s Gumbo (the actual gumbo, not the juke joint) was on the list. The menu was tiny; gumbo, red beans & rice, Bar-BQ Pork & turkey sandwiches. But everything on the menu was homemade and delicious. Food became a big part of the business. Often locals would stop in after work for take-out. Catering orders flooded in.
Business was good, til the owners of the building decided to tear it down. So in 2005 the owners, Guy & Terra Berry, closed the doors and starting looking for a new home for Guy’s Gumbo.
The current version of Guy’s Gumbo Shack is a converted Laundromat with an oversize bar and rickety tables, mismatched chairs and funky décor. There’s a stage with really big speakers in one corner. Tourists appear confused when they peer in the door. “Is this a restaurant or a bar?” they ask.
To tell the truth it’s both. During the day, tourists, city officials, and locals flock in for lunch. The place is subdued, with patrons reverently savoring every bite of their spicy selections. Late afternoons it’s a little more fun, with regulars enjoying happy hour at the bar and always, serious eaters seriously chowing down. At night, there’s no telling what you’ll find. Live music Thursday through Saturday (almost always). Locals getting loose; tourists checking out the local entertainment; and again, serious eaters focused on the food.
Even though the Gumbo Shack serves only a few basic creole-style dishes, the flavors are so soulfully deep that you want to savor each bite to its depth. If you want to experience fundamental, creole-style cooking, Guy’s Gumbo Shack is it. Perhaps, because it really is a family operation, run by the husband-and-wife team of Guy and Terra Berry, something earnest and homey rubs off on the food.
Red beans & rice is one of those dishes that are easily taken for granted. But Guy’s version, made with smoky beef sausage, is so earthy, with layers of spice that build up to a mouth-pleasing glow that makes you want to inhale every last bit. The Jambalaya is equally smoky but more complex. As in paella, the rice forms a crucial basis for sausage and vegetables, and is amplified by a blend of garlic, peppers, tomato and spices. It’s really spicy, but you can’t stop eating til it’s gone.
Last and most important among the menu’s three important dishes is the gumbo. Restaurant gumbos are often drab affairs, lacking the spark of liveliness necessary to galvanize the dish into something more than an inconsequential soupy stew. But one can easily imagine Guy’s family at home, fighting over the last slurps in the bowl.
The roux is medium dark, full of spicy tomato flavor. Not too spicy though… it’s just right. Guy’s gumbo is thickened with okra and full of chicken and andouille sausage. Seafood is added to order (kind of like pizza toppings) so you can pick and choose your favorites. It’s all the things a great gumbo should be; silky texture, smoky, spicy flavor and oh so memorable.
The menu includes a few additional items. Guy smokes his own turkey breasts then hand-slices the meat for sandwiches. The result is a big juicy slice of turkey that makes a really special sandwich. I almost forgot about the Bar-B-Q sandwich; it’s a big sloppy delicious mess, definitely the best in town! The burgers are pretty decent too. |
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